Your light system - links wanted

[David Moore]

I'm in the mood to buy something new(like thats anything new:big_grin: ).

I may get a light so please post pics or links to what you are currently using and the specs if you know them.

If you hate what you have post that to. It'd be great to know what to avoid:wink:

[Chewieez]

Trail Tech HID with NiMH battery = $199

http://trailtech.net/store/helmet_light_kits.html

I use the black, single HID helmet mounted. It's the first choice on the list, SPOT option, second choice in the drop down menu. (the pic shows a dual HID helmet setup, but the menu lets you choose 1 or 2 HIDs.)

It's a great HID, great company, great price.

The one minus is the mount is just a strip of dual-loc. It mounts very firmly to your helmet, but you don't have any swivel control.

[TNcaveman]

:ditto2:

It's brighter than everyone elses

And cheaper

Steve

[David Moore]

So both of you use a flood rather than a spot light?

[Chewieez]

So both of you use a flood rather than a spot light?

I use the TrailTech Spot..... not the flood.

Their spot had a pretty wide beam.

[Johnny5]

I use the TurboCat S10 10w barmount spot. Plenty of light, bombproof, cost 175 bucks total with a bottle cage NiCad batter (your choice of battery), and gives me consistent 4+ hour burn times during 12 hour solo races.

http://www.turbocatusa.com/tech.html
http://www.turbocatusa.com/S25.html

HIDs are nice and very bright, but I love the reliability of my S10. Worth every penny.

[David Moore]

I asked because there are 3 choices and you said you got the first on the list...the first is flood, second is spot, third is the dual light:thumb:

[Chewieez]

I asked because there are 3 choices and you said you got the first on the list...the first is flood, second is spot, third is the dual light:thumb:

yea yea... I know, I was wrong. I picked the second choice, the spot.

They even have a more powerful HID now, the second one down on the list, the MR16. It's about $310 with battery, but I don't think you need all that power in one light.

[David Moore]

I use the TurboCat S10...

Purchased online or LBS?

[bikersbuttrulez]

I use exactly what Chewieez uses :chewie0ol:

and I couldn't be happier.

Not one single complaint!

:thumb:

[Johnny5]

called the number on their site. There isn't a local dealer, but you talk to the owners when you call. Great people. Called, ordered, had it 3 days later. Great company. My friends have been using their S10's for 10 years now. Solid stuff.

For 175 bucks and honestly the amount of times I've needed it, I can't complain. I try to get out on several night rides a year, but not enough to justify 300 bucks worth of lights. Not when I have other stuff to buy/repair/pay for, it's made my 12 hour solo efforts much better, had been racing with 2 CatEye EL500's. :doh:

[Bikebrainmaniac]

http://z10.invisionfree.com/NMB/index.php?showtopic=3162

Jet Lites...the Turner of bike lites.

[Ron Mexico]

Same light as Chewy and BBR. The spot is essentially like a flood, at least on singletrack. Very bright, clean, crisp, light, you won't be disappointed.

[Paddlechris]

As long as it is a good HID you should be good..

More lumens per watt and better light (high CRI's) pluss they maintain thier light consistancy better over time (ie as the lamp gets older the light is just as good over time, other lamps loose lumens over tim)

From the "light nerd"

C

[Accumbens]

I also have a turbocat, but the trailguide 15 watt (spot- turbocat's floods are like 120 degrees - only good if you have a spot also). If you don't need more than 2 hours burn time, this one is great. The build quality is great - all machined aluminum with simple (read less likely to break) buttons/connectors - was also about $175.

I also have a lume HID - it's very nice, but for the price I'd go for the trailtech.

Also, if you don't want HID, the jet lights halogens are very nice and bright (20 watt version). It's plastic, so if you REALLY want to go with durability, the turbocat is probably better, but I know the jets also hold up very well.

[TNcaveman]

Given the same battery - the 13 watt HID (trailtech) is equal to approximately a 35 to 50 watt halogen. The brightness of the halogen varies with voltage. The HID regulates it's voltage so the light is the same regardless of the state of the battery. These lights are way better than I imagined. Trust me - it's awesome.

For the number of times every year that you will use it, 200 bucks is all I would spend. I've used my trailtech about 6 times and love it. The dual lock fastener is similar but way superior to Velcro. It's actually locked in place. Once set - it won't move. HC and L4 are no problem. Plus you can place a mount on multiple helmets. Dual lock can be purchased at Wal-mart and Target (in the Velcro section).

The charger is real nice too. It also comes with a extra wire to hook up to a ATV/motorcycle battery - sooo you can make an extra battery pack. The battery pack is 13.2 volts - nickel metal hydride. Another premade pack is around 45 bucks. There is a LED on the cord that shows relative voltage - green fresh - yellow medium - red nearly gone. I've used it for 2 hrs with no dimming.

A local bike shop needs to stock these lights - they would sell faster than a 350 dollar Night Rider or similar.

Steve :typing:

[Bikebrainmaniac]

As long as it is a good HID you should be good..

Piont worth repeating...all light systems, including HID's, are NOT the same.


(ie as the lamp gets older the light is just as good over time, other lamps loose lumens over tim)


Other lamps being Halogen? If that's the case, I'm going to MO some new bulbs (@ $2-$3 a piece) and replace the 10 year old bulbs in my system.
This is potentially good news, for I have rebuilt my battery packs with new 5000mAh Ni-Mh cells and slightly overvolted the system, yet the bulbs still seem to lack the original punch they once had (10 years ago).
Caveman said, "The brightness of the halogen varies with voltage." I've only noticed a dimming of my lights when the overall voltage output = 1v per cell. This only happens at the end of the discharge cycle, after about 3 hours of burn time. FYI, discharging a battery pack past 1v per cell will cause cell reversal and ruin the pack!!

For my money, I prefer a multi-light Halogen system.
I have a 12w low and 20w high beam flood on my handlebars, and a 10w spot on my helmet.

The helmet system lets you see around corners and/or anywhere the handlebars aren't pointed. The disadvantage here is that this light alone doesn't cast any visible shadows, thus you lose depth perception.

On the handlebar, I focus the low beam about 10 - 15 feet down the trail, the high beam is focused about 15 - 20 feet down the trail and only turned on for downhills via a thumb switch.
The advantage of a handlebar system is that it casts visible shadows behind trail obstacles thus helping with depth perception.

By using both, you get the best of both worlds.

[Commander]

I'm surprised no one had mentioned Light & Motion HID. I have the ARC Li-Ion. www.bikelights.com.

They have some of the nicest lights I've used and some of the best people at the company to work with. They've been supporting SORBA and events nicely for the last few years and are always willing to fix an issue if it arises. Very easy to get in touch with and taken care of.

[mudder]

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/15779-225_CYGDL6-43-Brands-363-Cygolite/Cygolite-Dual-Cross-Li-Ion-LED-Bike-Light.htm

pretty much the best light for your money. It is really bright and is my current light. The Liion rocks! Come look at it anytime. 512 four nine seven 900 seven.

-John

[Commander]

Most enlightening thing I've read in a while
http://www.gearreview.com/2007_led_lights.php

[Tumbler]

Does anyone know where I can get a good light cheap? I mean uber unrealisticly rediculously cheap. I got one for my b-day a year ago and at least one of the cells in the battery has gone bad. I am lucky to get 30ish minutes out of it on a full charge now. I need a replacement light but can't really afford to shell out the dough for a new one.

[David Moore]

Is a replacement battery made for you light? May be a cheap solution that way, I don't know.

[encyclopediabrown]

(not hijaking) but thanks for the link mudder! that will be the perfect supplement for my helmet light!

[dgregg]

I built my own and love it. Super cheap. Battery straps to me and lasts forever 20w beam is extremely bright. Steps are at this link: http://www.geocities.com/jimburnetto/bike_light.html:cyclist:

[Bikebrainmaniac]

Sonny, browse around here:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=217
There are plenty of smokin deals if you are willing to DIY.

[Chewieez]

I agree with David.... sounds like you need a new battery, not a new light system. Much cheaper.

What you may have to do is buy a battery and cut off the connector on your current battery and solder it onto the new battery. Different light systems use different connections, but it's super easy, just 2 wires to solder.

You can buy a good light from www.trailtech.net for $75
http://www.trailtech.net/040-NiMH-3700.html

You could also look around on http://www.batteryspace.com They sell tons of lights and batteries.

[TNcaveman]

Batteries plus on Nolensville road will replace your cells (NiCad or Nmh) for between 2.50 and 5 dollars a cell. They will disasemble it and resoldier everything for no additional charge.

Steve

PS - sometimes they will do it while you wait.

[Chewieez]

Batteries plus on Nolensville road will replace your cells (NiCad or Nmh) for between 2.50 and 5 dollars a cell. They will disasemble it and resoldier everything for no additional charge.

Steve

PS - sometimes they will do it while you wait.


Cool! That is great info! I may have to take a battery of mine down there.

[Tumbler]

Actually, I was already looking into repairing it myself when I posted my comment yesterday.

When you have a bad cell in a battery and try to charge it the end result is the cell usually disipates the energy in the form of heat rather than storing it. Well, none of the cells are doing this. I will have to get a hold of a volt meter that can test low voltage to see if any of the cells are not charging.

Right now I am questioning the charger. So far it refuses to talk. I have a feeling it will fess up soon. :crazy: Seriously though, up until last night it would whistle while the battery was plugged into it and not shut off as it is suppose to.

Nothing is as straight forward as you want it to be.

Thanks for the heads up Caveman. I was looking on line for replacement cells and they are around the same cost as what you stated.


Sonny, browse around here:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=217
There are plenty of smokin deals if you are willing to DIY.

Actually that is where my setup came from originally.

[Tumbler]

Well, I just discovered that I successfully made a butt out of myself with my last post. I knew some basic information about rechargable batteries and assumed it was true for all rechargeables. Come to find out Li-Ion batteries are very volital and not very durable with a short lifespan. The only advantage is that you get longer run times per use. I am going to a place today to see if they can set me up with something better. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

[dgregg]

I just realized my link didn't work for the home made bike light. Here it is again.

http://www.geocities.com/jimburnetto/bike_light.html

Later!

[Tumbler]

After talking to Bruce at Batteries Plus in Brentwood I decided to have him stuff some Ni-MH cells in my old water bottle. He stated that they would be safer, more durable, and a longer lifespan. It's gonna cost me about $120 including a charger. It's a good chunk of change but at least I know it will be done right. Plus it is one less project I have to worry about.